A Beloved London Designer Had a Breakout Show

October 5, 2017

Martine Rose, who has been offering punk-, skinhead- and raver-inspired men’s wear since 2007, has had an erratic showing schedule when it comes to fashion week. She’s sometimes opted out entirely, or showed just a single look. But this season, the designer staged a full-fledged runway show for the first time in four years — and it was a welcome return. Buyers, editors, and even FKA Twigs trekked to an indoor market on the outskirts of London to see a collection filled with sartorial interpretations of archetypal male characters, from the bus driver to the banker.

 

 

 

Louis Vuitton's collaboration with Supreme.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Instagram Freaked Out for One Collection

 

It’s no surprise that two megabrands like Louis Vuitton and Supreme, each with its own set of cult followings, would cause a stir when it was announced they’d collaborate together on a range of products. Once the first look at the Louis Vuitton show in Paris walked the runway — a model wearing a red Supreme-labeled leather fanny-pack across his chest — Instagram was inundated with posts from the fashion world documenting every accessory. Critics, however, were less keen on the collaboration: Guy Trebay called the collaboration “the fashion version of a murder-suicide.”

 

 

 

 

It Was an Exciting Season for New Designers

 

The shows in London, Milan and Paris brought a lot of change — a number of fashion’s biggest European brands welcomed new designers at the helm. Alessandro Sartori made a return to Ermenegildo Zegna, Guillaume Meilland took the reins designing Salvatore Ferragamo’s men’s wear and Haider Ackermann debuted his first collection for Berluti. But it was Francesco Risso, a Prada alum, who gave the biggest jolt to his house as the new creative director of Marni. With a runway set featuring moving digital abstractions of domestic rooms, models came down the runway in an assortment of colorful checks, quirky pajama suits — and lots of fur. The show felt simultaneously classic Marni and yet wholly new.

 

  

 

 

 

 

   

There Were a Few Standout Accessories

In keeping with an overall politically charged season, the beret caps that were worn by models in a range of shows — from Gosha Rubchinskiy to Missoni and Prada in Milan and Louis Vuitton in Paris — hit a symbolic note. And things also went craftsy, particularly around the neck. At Prada, Loewe and Dries Van Noten, twigs, feathers, bones and teeth were fashioned into unusual, arty necklaces that could have been part of the costumes in “Games of Thrones.”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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October 5, 2017

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